Introduction

The four parts of a bassoon are referred to by various names.

• Firstly there is the "short-joint", also known as the "wing-joint", which has a narrow metal socket at the top end (into which the crook fits) and is corked tenon at the other end.
• Secondly there is the "bottom-joint", also called the "boot-joint" or "butt-joint", which has two sockets next to each other.
• Thirdly there is the "long-joint", also called the " bass joint", with a cork tenon at each end.
• Lastly there is the "bell", which has only one key on it.

Assembly

The long keys and levers on a bassoon are extremely vulnerable, and can be easily bent during assembly. When assembling and disassembling the instrument it is important to avoid touching the keys. Ensure the tenons are greased with cork grease before assembly, not only does this make the assembly easier, but because over time the tenons tend to distort from a circle shape to an oval shape, it helps make the joints air tight.

1. Firstly assemble the bell and long-joint: hold the bell in your left hand above the Bb key but with your fingers holding the key closed; hold the long-joint with your right hand in the area of the joint locking pin (or around the D key guard); work the two joints together with a twisting motion.

2. Secondly assemble the short-joint and the bottom-joint: hold the short-joint in your left hand gripping the "wing"; hold the bottom-joint in your right hand with your thumb and fingers gripping the metal sleeve at the top of the joint; work the short-joint onto the bottom-joint and match the concave side of the short joint so it is parallel to the curve of the socket for the long-joint.

3. Thirdly assemble the long-joint and the bottom-joint: hold the assembled bell and long-joint in your left hand gripping the metal sleeve of the bell; hold the bottom-joint in your right hand with your thumb and fingers gripping the metal sleeve at the top of the joint; work the long-joint down into the bottom-joint with a twisting motion until it is fully home and the joint locking pin can be closed.

4. Lastly fit the hand rest and insert the crook.

Disassembly

When taking the instrument apart it is best to try to keep it upright to prevent water running into the pads. Never lay the assembled instrument down or across your lap (even when resting during a performance) - always hold it in its upright position. Reversing the assembly procedure, when you have removed the long-joint and the bell in one piece, lay them to one side because they do not need to be swabbed out, concentrate on keeping the short-joint and the bottom-joint upright until they have been swabbed out.

Provided the bassoon is correctly assembled and disassembled, it is best to pack the bassoon away after each playing session rather than leave it propped in a corner. There are two reasons for this: firstly it is necessary to get rid of the water that has collected in the bore, particularly in the "U tube; secondly, if the joints are left assembled then the corks on the tenons loose there "springiness" and do not form an airtight seal in the socket.

Swabbing out

To avoid water gathering in the tone holes or rotting the wood, particularly in the bottom-joint, it is important to have a swabbing out regime.

The short-joint has a lined bore (but not all the tone-holes may be lined) and to prevent water collecting in the tone-holes it should be swabbed out immediately after playing with an appropriate cloth pulled down from the socket to the tenon.

The bottom-joint always has the narrow bore lined and sometimes both bores are lined. After playing, it is important to tip out any water that has gathered in the "U tube" at the bottom of the joint. If only the narrow bore is lined, then tip the water out holding the joint so that the water runs along the side of the lined bore (i.e. so the water does not run into any tone holes); if both bores are lined it is better to tip the water out along the side of the wider bore. Use a swabbing (wooden) rod to swab out the narrow bore.

Because of their size bassoons are made of Maple, and this wood is easily damaged by water - so it is essential swabbing out is done before the instrument is put back in its case.

The crook should also be swabbed out with a commercial brush cleaner or swab; use a nylon fibre from a broom to clean the Octave hole in the crook (never use a pin or needle).

The instrument case

A well fitting instrument case is essential. The keys will be bent if the instrument can move in the case while being carried. Do not lock the long-joint and short-joints together when they are in the case (unless you absolutely have to due to the design of the case) - if the case is dropped the joint lock is likely to break from one or other of the joints. Cork grease, cleaning rods, and swabs are required to be kept in the case; nothing else should be kept in the case unless there is a specific compartment for it.

Maintenance

Occasionally oil the instrument using instrument oil in a needle dispenser. If dust or fluff does gather on the instrument brush it away with a shaving brush.

Whereas other wooden woodwind instruments are made of very dense and stable African Blackwood, bassoons are made of much softer Maple that is vulnerable to water damage and is a lot less stable. Because the wood is less stable the instrument can often develop problems with the key mechanism and also problems with leaking tenons and sockets. Bassoons are particularly prone to leaking pads. Unique to bassoons are "compound tone-holes" where one pad is covering more than one tone hole; these pads need regular checking.

Players often blame themselves for the poor sound they produce when actually the instrument is at fault; the instrument should be regularly serviced.