Introduction

There are three parts to an oboe.

• Firstly the "top joint", which has a narrow metal socket at the top end (into which the reed fits) and corked tenon at the other end; it also has a lot of "keys", these are operated by the player so that the various "pads" cover or uncover the "tone holes" to make different musical notes.
• The second part of the instrument is the "bottom joint", which has one corked tenon and also has keys.
• The last part of the instrument is the "bell".

Assembly (of student oboes)

Use this method to assemble an oboe to avoid damaging it.

1. Firstly assemble the bell and long-joint: hold the bell in your left hand above the Bb key but with your fingers holding the key closed; hold the long-joint with your right hand in the area of the joint locking pin (or around the D key guard); work the two joints together with a twisting motion.

2. Secondly assemble the short-joint and the bottom-joint: hold the short-joint in your left hand gripping the "wing"; hold the bottom-joint in your right hand with your thumb and fingers gripping the metal sleeve at the top of the joint; work the short-joint onto the bottom-joint and match the concave side of the short joint so it is parallel to the curve of the socket for the long-joint.

3. Thirdly assemble the long-joint and the bottom-joint: hold the assembled bell and long-joint in your left hand gripping the metal sleeve of the bell; hold the bottom-joint in your right hand with your thumb and fingers gripping the metal sleeve at the top of the joint; work the long-joint down into the bottom-joint with a twisting motion until it is fully home and the joint locking pin can be closed.

4. Lastly fit the hand rest and insert the crook.

Care of the instrument

An instrument case that fits well is essential. The keys will be bent if the instrument can move in the case while being carried. Nothing else should be kept in the case unless there is a specific compartment for it.

Cork grease is also essential to lubricate the joints before assembly. For wooden instruments cleaning rods are also required to swab out for each joint after playing (a silk pull-through can be used for the top-joint).

After playing (and swabbing out) the instrument is best left to "air" for 5-10 minutes - this will prolong the life of the pads.

There is generally no need to clean or oil the instrument if it is regularly serviced. If dust or fluff does gather on the instrument brush it away with a shaving brush.

Oboe stands

If the instrument is left assembled it is more likely to be picked up and played. A stand is useful because it helps the instrument drain properly and is safer than just leaving the instrument propped against something.

Child players (with siblings) might be better taking the bell off the instrument and placing it under their bed with the holes pointing upwards, the instrument won’t drain effectively but it might be played more often and won’t get knocked over.

In performances it is best for the player to keep hold of their oboe, this way it won’t cool down (and play flat).

Maintenance

The instrument should be serviced once a year to ensure it is operating correctly. The pads, corks, and felts on the instrument (and also the adhesives which keeps these items in place) deteriorate over time. On older or poorer quality instruments the mechanism itself starts to wear and keys can become loose or jammed. Usually such deterioration is gradual and the player subconsciously compensates by blowing harder and pressing harder on the keys. Without servicing the deterioration continues until something major goes wrong and the instrument becomes unplayable and in need of considerable repair.

Players often blame themselves for the poor sound they produce when actually the instrument is at fault. Test your oboe with the following exercises, in all cases you should be able to play the notes without squeezing the keys hard or blowing hard: G# to F#; holding LH little finger Eb open play Low C; Low C to B; Low C to Bb.

Tuning

There is a specific tuning issue with Oboes that many Oboists seem to be unaware of. The plate for the first finger can be set at two different vent heights. For beginners who do not use the roll plate (i.e. they do not roll their finger forward to play middle C#, D and Eb) the vent should be set low. For more advanced players who do use the roll plate the vent should be set high (because the low venting interferes with the tuning of the top C#). If you are not sure if the first finger plate is set correctly take it to a repairer.