Introduction

There are three parts to the Alto or Tenor Sax.

• A mouthpiece - this has a flat side onto which the reed is fastened using a ligature.
• A short curved tube called the "crook" - the mouthpiece fits onto the corked end, and the other end of the crook fits into the saxophone body
• The body on which are found the keys, these are operated by the players fingers so that leather pads either cover or uncover the various "tone holes" to make different musical notes.

Assembly

Use this method to assemble an Alto or Tenor sax to avoid damaging it.

1. Fit the mouthpiece onto the crook and then the reed onto the mouthpiece.

2. Loosen the nut on the socket at the top of the body.

3. Carefully fit the crook into the socket at the top of the body.

4. Fit the sling and hold the instrument in the playing position. (Use a good quality sling that can be easily adjusted and will not slip off the instrument).

5. Adjust the position of the crook and mouthpiece if required and then tighten the nut on the socket to secure the crook in position.

Taking care of the instrument

After playing remove the mouthpiece from the crook and remove the reed from the mouthpiece; place a mouthpiece mop in the mouthpiece to soak up any moisture; put the ligature back onto the mouthpiece and then fit the mouthpiece cap on; put the reed in its holder. (This routine will prolong the life of the reed and help prevent deposits building up in the mouthpiece)

Use a "crook cleaner" to clean out the crook (to prevent deposits building up).

Leave the Saxophone to "air" on a stand for 5-10 minutes after playing if possible to prolong the life of the pads. If the instrument has to be packed away often without being left to air then a "pad saver" will help -it will soak up the moisture left in the instrument.

Cleaning the instrument

Once a month leave the mouthpiece standing upside-down in mouthwash for 30 seconds and then wash out with soapy water (this will clear away any calcium deposits that have built up).

If dust or fluff does gather on the instrument then gently brush it away with a shaving brush.

Use a lacquer cleaning cloth to polish the instrument - if the keys are nickel-plated then use a brass cleaning cloth to clean them (to prolong the life of the plating)

Once a month use a precision screwdriver to check (gently) that the screws at each end of keys and the screws securing the key guards are tight. Do not adjust any other screws!

Saxophone stands

Instrument stands have two functions - firstly to support the instrument safely when it is not being played (as an alternative to being propped up against a chair) and secondly to help the instrument drain properly (the condensation from the players breath will drain into the palm key tone holes and onto the pads if a saxophone is left lying horizontally.

Some players find the hassle of assembling and dis-assembling a Sax can prevent them practicing. If the instrument is placed on a stand after playing it can be left assembled and it will drain properly (although I would still advise removing the crook, swabbing it out, then replacing it).

Saxophone cases

Saxophones are easily damaged and a well fitting instrument case is essential. The keys will be bent if the instrument can move in the case while being carried. Nothing else should be kept in the case unless there is a specific compartment for it (or it can fit in the bell). While the instrument is in the case it must have its' "end plug" (usually supplied with the instrument) inserted into the top socket to prevent the instrument moving about in the case.

The mouthpiece, ligature and mouthpiece cap

The mouthpiece is largely responsible for the response, tuning, and tone of the instrument. That is why it is so important to prevent deposits building up inside it.

The function of the mouthpiece cap is to protect the mouthpiece - for some reason mouthpieces are regularly dropped! If the cap is plastic and is cracked, or it is metal and badly dented, replace it because it will not protect the mouthpiece if it is dropped.

Regularly check the ligature, the basic cheap metal ligature has a limited lifetime because the constant loosening and re-tightening of the ligature screws gradually distorts the metal so that it no longer holds the reed flat to the mouthpiece.

Servicing and repair

Players often blame themselves for the poor sound they produce when really it is the condition of the instrument that is causing problems.

Test your Sax with the following exercises (in all cases you should be able to play the notes without squeezing the keys hard or blowing hard): mid C to B; mid B to Bb using long Bb; mid B to A; G# to F; G to F#; G to F; D to Low C; Low C to Bb; Also high G to A.

The instrument should be serviced once a year to ensure it is operating correctly. The pads, corks, and felts on the instrument (and also the adhesives which keeps these items in place) deteriorate over time. On older or poorer quality instruments the mechanism itself starts to wear and keys can become loose or jammed.

Usually such deterioration is gradual and the player subconsciously compensates by blowing harder and pressing harder on the keys. The deterioration first affects the tone and then the tuning and response of the instrument. Without servicing the deterioration continues until something major goes wrong and the instrument becomes unplayable and in need of considerable repair.

A suitable mouthpiece

A surprising number of Saxophones are paired with unsuitable mouthpieces. The mouthpiece is the critical component of the instrument and is largely responsible for the tone, tuning, intonation, response, and dynamic range.

If the instrument is in good condition then usually you should be able to play the instrument evenly and easily throughout its compass, and to play in tune (+/- 20 cents). I strongly recommend that you check that the mouthpiece is suitable for the instrument and if it is not then buy a new one (of either student or professional quality). Refer to the page “Information about clarinet and saxophone mouthpieces for advanced players”.

A good ligature

On a student mouthpiece the ligature is usually made of metal and has two screws. The ligature should fit onto the mouthpiece without twisting or bending, and the two screws should be parallel. With the reed off the mouthpiece the "bands" (sides) of the ligature should nearly meet when the screws are tightened. With the reed on, the space between the bands should be less than 1.6 mm (1/16"). If the ligature does not fit properly or if the metal has become distorted then the reed will not sit on the mouthpiece correctly - the instrument will not play as easily and as well as it should. You should consider buying a new ligature.

If the mouthpiece manufacturer makes a matching ligature then buy that one, otherwise I would recommend the following:

• For plastic mouthpieces - Rovner (in particular), light or dark - around £15 to £20
• For ebonite mouthpieces - Rovner as above, or BG ligature - around £20 to £30
• For metal mouthpieces - manufacturers usually make a matching ligature, otherwise choose from specific BG matching ligatures

Problems with water condensation in the crook

A Sax is made of brass and the water vapour from the players breathe reacts with the metal causing deposits to build up - particularly in the crook.

The dimensions of the crook are critical so deposits can affect tone and tuning. Also when the instrument is first played the crook is cold and water vapour condenses in the crook and runs down into the top tone holes attacking the pads, sometimes players can feel water bubbling out from the top tone holes.

It is possible to reduce the build up of deposits and the bubbling tone holes by warming up the crook by holding it in your hands for a couple of minutes before starting to play.

Sticky pads

The G# and Low C# are particularly prone to sticking - this is a design problem of saxophones and you have to learn to live with it. Before playing check both pads do open - if they do not then carefully but sharply push the key open and operate it a few times.

To clean sticky pads you will need Meths, some cotton buds and pad cleaning papers:

1. Dab a cotton bud in some meths and clean round the pad and the rim of the tone hole carefully as far as possible without jamming the cotton bud at the back of the pad.

2. Dab some meths on a sheet of cleaning paper and drag it through underneath the pad with the pad held lightly closed so as not to tear the paper, then allow the pad about a minute to dry.

3. Take another sheet of cleaning paper and use a 4B pencil to cover both sides of the paper with pencil lead, then put this paper underneath the pad and drag it through a few times. The graphite in the pencil lead acts as a lubricant and should prevent the pad from sticking for a while.